How to set Snaps (Press Studs) in Leather
In this guide, I’ll show you how to set snaps (press studs) in leather using simple hand tools. I’ll cover the different parts of a snap, the tools required, common mistakes, and when to use each type.
Snaps are one of the simplest and most useful closures you can use when working with leather.
They’re pretty strong, and if installed properly, they will last for years.
If you’ve never set a snap before, they can look confusing at first. There are multiple parts, different sizes, and several tools that all look slightly similar.
But once you understand how they work, they’re actually really quick and easy to use.
Let’s break it down.
The Parts of a Snap
A standard leather snap consists of four parts:
1. Cap
This is the visible top part. It usually has a smooth, rounded surface.
2. Socket
This connects to the cap and is the “female” part of the snap.
3. Stud
The “male” part that clicks into the socket.
4. Post (or Eyelet)
This secures the stud to the leather.
You install them in two halves:
- Cap + Socket
- Post +Stud
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| 4 Parts of Glove Snaps | 4 Parts of Line 20/24 Snaps |
Types of Snaps
The most common snaps in leathercraft are:
Line 20 Snaps
Good for lighter leather (3-6 oz or 1-2.5 mm).
Often used in projects like wallets, small pouches, and notebook covers.
Line 24 Snaps
Stronger and slightly larger. Used on leather 5 oz and thicker, you can also get longer posts for these to use on very thick leather. Good for bags, and heavier or rugged items like projects that get more stress.
Glove Snaps
Can be smaller and more delicate. Useful for lightweight leather goods, (3-6 oz or 1-2.5 mm). They come in mini and regular. I often use the regular size for small wallets and similar projects.
In summary, they are the same type of hardware but they differ in size and the leather thickness they are used for. Also, they all require different setting tools, so make sure your setting tool matches the snap you want to use.
Tools You Need
To set snaps by hand, you’ll need:
- A snap setting tool that matches the type and size of snap you want to set.
- An anvil or solid metal base.
- A rawhide mallet (don’t use a metal hammer as this will damage your setting tools over time)
- A hole punch (rotary punch)
- A firm surface underneath (granite slab or similar)
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| Various Snap Setters, a Rotary Punch and a Rawhide Mallet |
Step-by-Step: Setting a Snap by Hand
These diagrams show how each half of the different types of snaps are assembled:
Setting Diagram for Glove Snaps:
Setting Diagram for Line 20/24 Snaps:
1. Mark Your Placement
Carefully measure and mark where the snap should sit. Double check alignment before punching.
2. Punch the Hole
The hole should be just large enough for the post to pass through.
If the hole is too big, the snap will not hold securely.
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| Make your Hole with a Drive Punch or Rotary Punch |
3. Install Cap + Socket
Lay the rounded cap into the rounded side of your anvil.
Push the socket-stem through the leather (so the socket sits flush against the leather). Then lay it over the cap, with the stem of the cap going through the middle of the socket (as shown in the pictures below).
Use the correct setting tool. (the tip of the tool should fit on top of the stem of the post)
Strike firmly but controlled a few times, rotate the setting tool a little to make sure it sets evenly.
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| Setting Cap and Socket of a Glove Snap. |
4. Install Stud + Post
Repeat the same process on the opposite side, however, this time use the flat surface of your anvil.
For Glove Snaps you use a hollow ended tool as pictured. For line snaps you use a setter with a tip on it like you used for setting the cap and socket.
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| Installing Post and Stud of a Glove Snap. |
5. Test the Snap
It should click firmly when you close it and release with a solid pull.
I like to also test each side separately by grabbing them between my fingers, if it spins, something went wrong during setting. You can try to hammer it another few times, in case it wasn’t set firmly enough, usually this will fix it.
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| Finished Snap! |
Common Mistakes
Hole too large
The snap won’t grip properly.
Leather too thick for the post length
The post must extend slightly beyond the leather before setting, if it doesn’t extend enough, it doesn’t have enough to grip on.
Using the wrong setter
Each snap type requires different tools.
Not supporting the cap properly
If the cap isn’t sitting in the matching anvil cup, it can flatten or deform.
When to Use Snaps in Your Projects
Snaps are great for:
- Wallets
- Pouches
- Tool rolls
- Book Covers
- (Adjustable) Bracelets
I use them in several of my patterns because they’re reliable and easy to install once you’ve practiced a few times.
If you'd like to try snaps in a simple project, I use them in this slim wallet with coin pocket pattern
Final Thoughts
Setting snaps feels intimidating the first time.
But after you’ve set a few of them, it becomes routine.
Take your time, use the correct tools, and don’t rush the hammer strikes.
Like most things in leathercraft, clean results come from preparation and practice more than force.
FAQ:
How thick can leather be for snaps?
Snaps come in different sizes and some like line 24 also are available with XL post lengths, but if the leather is too thick (say above 10 oz or 4mm) you either need to skive the leather down, or thin around where the snap will sit.
Can you reuse a snap after setting?
Generally, you can’t reuse metal snaps or press studs after they have been fully set, as the setting process permanently crimps and distorts the metal parts
Why does my snap spin?
A spinning snap or press stud usually indicates it was not set with enough pressure, the leather is too thin for the size, or the hole made was too large, preventing the stem from flattening properly to lock it in place. Try to hammer it again using a little more force.
You can find more leathercraft tutorials and guides here