How to Set Rivets in Leather
Setting rivets in leather is an essential skill for beginners and experienced leatherworkers alike. Whether you’re attaching straps, reinforcing stress points, or adding decorative hardware, knowing how to properly size and set rivets makes your projects stronger and cleaner.
Rivets are one of the quickest and cleanest ways to join two pieces of leather.
They’re strong, beginner-friendly, and once you understand sizing and setup, they’re almost impossible to mess up.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through:
- The different types of rivets
- The tools you need
- How to choose the correct size
- How to set them properly
- And the most common mistakes to avoid
Let’s break it down.
Parts of a Leather Rivet
Leather rivets consist of two parts:
- The cap
- The post
The post goes through the leather layers, and the cap is pressed onto it. When struck with a setter, the post flares slightly inside the cap, locking everything together.
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| Rivets come in many sizes and colors. |
Types of Rivets in Leathercraft
Rapid Rivets (Single Cap)
These are the most common rivets used in leathercraft.
They have:
- One finished cap
- One flat backing
They’re affordable, easy to set, and perfect for beginners.
The downside is that the backside isn’t decorative, so they’re best used where only one side is visible.
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| Rapid Rivets |
Double Cap Rivets
Double cap rivets have finished caps on both sides.
They look much cleaner in projects where both sides are visible. Depending on the item I'm working on, I personally prefer double cap rivets for most visible work because they give a more finished look, however they are usually a little more expensive than single cap rivets.
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| Double Cap Rivets |
Solid Rivets (Overview)
Solid rivets are different.
Instead of snapping together like rapid rivets, they’re peened over using a hammer. They’re much stronger and commonly used in saddlery, armor or heavy-duty leather goods.
I don’t personally use solid rivets in my projects, but if you’re building heavy-load items, they’re worth researching further.
Chicago Screws (Removable Alternative)
Chicago screws are often confused with rivets, but they work differently.
Instead of being permanently set, they screw together with a threaded post and cap.
This means:
- They can be removed later
- They’re reusable
- They’re great for removable straps, belts (so you can change the buckle), and prototypes
I personally use Chicago screws when I want the option to disassemble something later, for example on strap attachments or test builds.
The downside is that they can loosen over time. If you’re using them in a project, adding a small drop of thread locker (like loctite 243) can help prevent that.
They’re technically not rivets, but they’re worth knowing about because they’re used in many of the same situations.
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| Chicago Screws |
Tools You Need
To set rivets by hand, you’ll need:
- A rivet setter
- A small anvil or steel surface
- A mallet
- A hole punch
A basic rivet setting kit usually includes the setter and anvil, which is enough to get started.
If you plan to set a lot of rivets, you can get a small hand press to make the process faster and more consistent, but it’s not required.
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| Various Sizes Rivet Setters, a Rotary Punch and a Rawhide Mallet |
Choosing the Correct Rivet Size
This is where most beginners go wrong.
The post length must match the thickness of your leather stack.
Rule of thumb:
The general advice is for the post to stick out around 3mm (around 1/8 inch) but in my experience that is a touch too long. I select my rivets to stick out about 2mm above the leather before attaching the cap.
If it’s too long:
- The rivet will bend
- The cap may dent
- The rivet may spin
If it’s too short:
- It won’t properly flare
- The hold will be weak
When in doubt, test on scrap leather first.
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| Selecting the correct size rivet post is important |
How to Set a Rivet (Step-by-Step)
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| How to Set Rapid Rivets and Double Cap Rivets in Leather |
- Punch a clean hole through all layers.
- Insert the post from the backside.
- Place the cap on top.
- Put the rivet onto the anvil. Flat anvil for single cap rivets, concave anvil for double cap rivets.
- Align the setter straight.
- Strike a couple of times, I like to hit lightly first and then firmly with a controlled hit.
Check that:
- The cap is centered
- The rivet doesn’t spin
- The leather isn’t crushed
- The rivet sits straight
Common Rivet Problems
Rivet spins
→ Post is too long.
Cap dented
→ Setter misaligned (make sure to hold it straight when you hammer)
→ Used the wrong size setter (too small) or hit too hard.
Rivet bends sideways
→ Hole too large or post too long.
Most problems come down to sizing.
When Should You Use Rivets Instead of Stitching?
Rivets are ideal for high-stress areas like strap attachments, belt loops, and reinforcement points. They’re fast to install and very strong in shear strength.
However, stitching distributes tension more evenly across a seam and is usually stronger over long edges. In many projects, combining both gives the best result.
I use both rivets and snaps in this compact belt bag and this dice pouch pattern if you'd like to try them in a simple project.